A charming bar of old is re-invented with the sympathetic treatment of a thoroughly modern chef. It's an historic thoroughfare, Bridge St, tucked quietly away in Kensington. Opening the front door, one meets the glistening, glassy gleam of the famous Rising Sun bar room and the chatter of patrons in the adjacent lounge. A rather gentlemanly and leathery fire-lit function room lies to the right, very elegant indeed for small private parties. To the left, the restaurant opens into a surprisingly large expanse with an airy conservatory at the far end. Therein are glass cabinets full of bone china tea sets, and collections of silver tea and coffee pots. All around are vases of blousey fresh roses, polished wood, sparkling glass and varnished red brick. The blinds are timber, as are the ceiling fans and there is art for sale on the walls amid the carriage lights.The seasons rule the Rising Sun's fare, as do imagination and culinary flair. In this new incarnation, the Rising Sun becomes a serene world of relaxed fine dining, shedding its old trad pub-style image, albeit the bar remains an inviting feature. While service is informed and efficient, the best way to enjoy the Rising Sun is at a quietly decadent pace.
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