Order a campari, perhaps nibble at a plate of the superb fried calamari, and contemplate a menu of good, honest Italian cooking. The choices haven't changed in years but almost everything is well-executed - pay attention when the specials are recited for a bit more variety. The pizzas are some of the best in town, the bases a perfect weight and texture, crisped on the bottom, the toppings applied by a restrained hand. The fungi with mushroom and gorgonzola is a favourite. Pasta with either cockles, mussels or the full marinara is also recommended, as are the meatballs and roasted spatchcock.
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