Barzaari

This Cypriot-Australian restaurant neatly proves that wherever a former Quay chef – Darryl Martin – lands, and Durack reviews, Range Rovers will follow. I stuff a brik pastry tube of Tiropikakia ($14/3) into my gob. This exciting reinvention of the humble Greek feta triangle, pleasures all corners of your palate using crisp pastry, feta and ricotta cream, pickled caper leaves, dill, blood orange and pine nuts. It’s an excellent beginning, especially when paired with the 2010 Bella Ridge Estate Chenin Blanc ($76) which is the first Australian Chenin blanc I’ve tried that could give Vouvray pause. The wine list, put together by Dennis Roman, contains wines from many of my Australian favourites - Jamsheed, Collector – alongside a wide-ranging global selection. There are also cocktails, running from a seasonally appropriate Spring Is In ($17) with vodka, Aperol and grapefruit, served Martini style with a cinnamon rim, to the more all-purpose Yeh Boi Rye Old Fashion ($19) taming rye ...read more